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A Choice of Herbs
Many of these herbs, such as gentian
and hazelwort, could be found on the local hillsides; others, such as rue and
marjoram, came from carefully tended kitchen gardens. Certain shrubs—particularly juniper and
myrtle—were popular for this purpose as well.
Wealthy folk made a point of buying wines that had been spiced with herbs that were
imported from afar—saffron from Cilicia, cardamom from the Malabar Coast of India,
and resinous myrrh from from Arabia, so that a supper table must at times have smelled
more like a perfumers' store than a place to eat.
A concoction of herbal favorings that yielded something akin to a
modern absinthe also was popular:
"To make absintium...use an uncium of clean ground wormwood from
Pontus, one date from Thebes, 3 scripulos of mastic and of aromatic leaf,
6 scripulos of costus root, 3 scripulos of saffron, 18 sextarii of appropriate
wine. It is necessary to use charcoal to remove its bitterness." (Apicius' De Re Coquinaria: recipe 3)
Though wormwood is a very bitter herb, it has been an ingredient of aperitifs and herbal wines
for centuries past: this, despite the fact that one of its principles, thujone, is toxic to the brain
and the liver. Habitual use causes hallucinations and the kind of excitability made famous by the French
artist, Vincent van Gogh, who surely was addicted to absinthe during the last years of his life.
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Pontic Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Dioscorides' De Materia Medica
5th century A.D.
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